The new $5 BR30 LED bulbs I just installed in the kitchen are amazingly bright and crisp: tests with a lux meter show the illuminance is more than 60% higher. Plus, they’ll more than pay for themselves in electricity savings compared to the old, inefficient LED bulbs they replaced.
Maybe a side-topic, but about the e-waste factor of discarding all these LED bulbs and associated electronics? Its a no brainer that they cost less in usage/consumption for the end user, but seems to be a bit of a throw-away, and part for part (environmentally) compared to a tungsten filament they must a have much larger carbon footprint. We don’t have a good ewaste recycling here in New Zealand either (expect any ewaste gets shipped to 3rd world countries to be manually pulled apart in less than ideal situations).
Durhl Caussey writes a car column read around the world. He may be reached at this paper or dcaussey@sbcglobal.net.
Great article. My first LED bulb failed a few weeks ago, after just one year of operation, being lit less than 3hr/day. Disassembled it, the LEDs work fine, but the constant current chip is dead.
Yes, LEDs are a good match for automotive. Most automotive LEDs (for dome lights, for example) use three LEDs in series, with an additional resistor. Oh, and a bridge rectifier. No capacitor, no switching supply. The only challenge, really, is that they’re often subjected to temperatures in the 120 deg F range.
Columbia Lighting, a Hubbell Lighting company has introduced the new Peloton™ High-Performance High Bay. The new Peloton High Bay luminaire operates at up to 177 lumens per watt (LPW) efficiency with 150 LPW standard. Columbia Lighting contends that most LED high bays offer up to just 135 LPW. The DLC Premium qualified product comes in packages that deliver between 8,000 and 60,000 lumens. The company designed the high bay light for a wide range of light industrial uses for facilities with ceiling heights ranging from 10 feet up to 60 feet.
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Sengled’s inclusion of a physical switch directly on its ZigBee-compatible bulb is a genius idea, but its engineering needs a do-over.
Another reason why I ultimately chose the BioLite over the Actik is that Petzl’s product weighs 92g, so it’s slightly heavier. It feels clunky, bulky and old-fashioned in comparison, and has a cold, hard plastic feel which is a bit front heavy. You can easily swivel it up and down to adjust where the beam is pointing, but it makes a loud creaky noise (not ideal for stealth). That said, the three settings are easy to navigate via a nicely large button above the LED lights, which makes life easy (especially if you’re in a panic, or you’ve had a few drinks).
And while it would be easy for Philips to sit back and expect the industry to conform to it as the de facto standard, it has instead worked hard to ensure its products are compatible with other technologies, including Amazon’s Echo and Google’s Google Home. Plus, Philips Hue bulbs are available in more form factors than any other manufacturer, including the ubiquitous A19 (the most common), BR (bulged reflector), PAR (parabolic reflector), GU (glass reflector with a U-shaped, dual-pin base), and a host of specialty shapes and sizes.
It gets complicated. I bought a fixture from Lowes which had a CC driver, but the LEDs were wired in series-parallel. That is, 3 in parallel, with 4 strings in series. So if one LED opens up, the other 2 bear the current, which hastens their demise. If one shorts, no problem, the light is just reduced. But I haven’t seen any that short out unless they were overvolted, highly unlikely in a CC fed string.
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